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You are watching: How to remove haze from clear coat

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I did my initially paint job and it came out pretty excellent (IMO). Then I did a light wet sanding with 1200 grit and also 2000 grit. I most likely must have actually left that alone, yet I went and did a compounding following using Meguires 105. Then I offered Meguires 205 machine polish.After sprucing up and also wiping through a microfiber towel, the end up looks incredibly good.But then after a little while a white haze appears. It"s not covering all the panel however it mirrors on about 25% of the surface.Wbelow is this haze coming from? How do I get rid of it. If it was left over polish or compound - wouldn"t that show automatically after wiping with the towel?
The haze can be from a couple of various things. One not letting the clear flash long sufficient in between coats and also some of the vapors were trapped and trying to escape.The various other and also much more prevalent is that tbelow are still fine scratches in the clear. 1200 to 2000 is a pretty big jump in grit. Are you making use of DA or hand sanding?Also I don"t usage M-105 anymore because it has actually fillers in it. The surface looks excellent till you clean it and then the clarity is gone. Try using M-100 as it is a much better product and also has no fillers.
Thanks aobtain for giving advice. Painting is a lot harder than it looks. I hand sanded. Then checked out the electric Polisher.I deserve to gain some Meguires M100. Should I gain a wool buffing pad or usage a foam cutting pad?I"m utilizing a Porter Cable 7424XP "dual activity orbit" polisher via a 5" pad at speed setting "3" (the array is speed 1= 2500 to rate 6= 6800 opm). I think Orbits per Minute and RPM is the same point so I"m running it roughly 4000rpm. The specs don"t offer an RPM.
I extremely recommend a rotary buffer over an orbital polisher. That in itself will assist greatly even through the M-105.Twisted wool pad on the first go around to rerelocate any type of remaining scratches. Then you have the right to go to a foam sprucing up pad and also the M-205.The rotary should be run at low RPMs (under a 1000) simply to keep the compound from flying all over until it is spreview out. Then crank it up to 2000 rpms and also job-related the surface. A sluggish and also stable rate of travel is better than relocating about easily. Make certain the buff is rotating "off" edges and body lines and also not "into" them.On page 11 of this threview, I show the reduced and also buff process using M-105 and also M-205.viewtopic.php?f=12&t=22145&start=100
I agree through the above.A polisher will work-related you to death trying to buff through it.Polishers are not aggressive sufficient for initial buffing.They polish, which is what you carry out after buffing, for light stuff like swirl remover.And through a good buffer and right pads you don"t require a polisher.Your haze is scratches.
One dimension does not fit all! I supplied rotating buffers for over 25 years. I had a specifically difficult time buffing out a auto that I had actually cleared via Tamco clear and the rotating just wasn"t obtaining the job done no matter what combicountry I supplied. After going thru the forum over at Autogeek , https://www.autogeek.net/flex-car-polishers.html, I took a possibility and also bought a new Flex 3401 forced rotation polisher. After experimenting via it using a couple of various combinations, the clear turned out to be one of the ideal if not the finest I have actually ever buffed and polimelted out. That was numerous years ago. I have not picked the rotating up since. cloud attach to picturehttps://1drv.ms/u/s!AlqXTowCsi4Ur3l5chfiain3_stl
That "Flex" polisher is a good tool and an exemption to other RO systems,it has actually better RPM"s and also a large stroke.It is an exception, and for that price it need to be.The crucial word tbelow is "rotating polisher" not random orbital onlywhich is means less aggressive which is what I was trying to convey.If anyone goes out and buys a constant RO polisher prefer the perboy didin this thcheck out they are going to be exceptionally disappointed for buffing.
Flex is not your plain buffer/polisher. Many men that are buying orbitals are doing so to protect against spfinishing the money on a rotary buffer.While I agree some rotating buffers, especially the older, cheaper ones, are less tha perfect, they still whip a orbital when it pertains to rerelocating scratches.A Flex polisher has actually been on my Christmas list for a couple of years now but man they are pricey!
I managed a detail organization for 14 years and also have been detailing vehicles for nearly 40 years myself. Needmuch less to say, I"ve buffed many kind of countless vehicles throughout that time. The DA"s and Orbital polishers are fine for minor correction/polishing and/or less competent folks. Neither but deserve to beat a rotating buffer for heavy correction. Different devices for different tasks. I have actually Meguairs MT300 for minor detailing and also use many type of of their products. The Flex is a fine machine but it cannot touch my Milwaukee variable rotating buffer for paint correction or even jeweling.The just benefit of a DA polisher is they are safer to operate for much less knowledgeable detailers and also less most likely to cause worries such as holograms. A DA can yet reason minor hazing as many kind of specialists attest to and also that is why they stick with their rotary polishers also through final action. So this is something the OP may think about.It"s hard to understand what the OP"s concern is without inspecting or seeing it though. If he painted the vehicle appropriately and also then lightly wet sanded it afterward, an excellent buffing and also sprucing up must have actually revealed a nice end up. My hunch is he didn"t remove every one of the polish/wax. The OP might try washing the car again to watch if that clears the haze. If that does not work-related he might attempt re-waxing it being certain to use a number of clean microfiber towels for removal. It that doesn"t occupational he can try wiping the surface down with some water and also isopropyl alcohol and also then re-polishing and also re-waxing.Worst instance scenario the OP didn"t use enough clear coat and finished up cutting through it as soon as he wet sanded the surconfront. The base coat would certainly absorb the polish/wax and also reason hazing. Good luck,Ralph
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